Skip to content
American Mahjong

How to Play American Mahjong: A Beginner's Guide

Everything a new player needs, the tiles, the card, the Charleston, a turn, and how to win, explained in the order it actually makes sense to learn it.

11 min read Updated Aug 2026

American Mahjong is a four-player tile game where everyone races to build a winning hand of 14 tiles that matches one of the hands printed on that year’s National Mah Jongg League (NMJL) card. The first person to complete one calls “Mah Jongg” and the hand ends.

If you have watched a game and felt lost, that is normal. The trick is to learn it in pieces: the tiles, the card, the passing ritual called the Charleston, and then a normal turn. Take them one at a time and the whole thing clicks.

What you need

  • A set of American Mahjong tiles: 152 of them, including 8 jokers and 8 flowers.
  • This year’s NMJL card: a small foldout that lists every hand you are allowed to win with, and how many points each is worth. A new one comes out every April. You buy it from the National Mah Jongg League or an authorized seller (about $15). The League link is not an affiliate link, and we earn nothing if you buy through it. Learning to read whatever card is in front of you is a skill of its own: see How to Read the NMJL Card.
  • Four players and a table. Racks help you hold your tiles upright.
You always use your own card. The card changes every year, so a big part of playing well is learning to read whatever card is in front of you. This guide teaches you how to read a card. It never reproduces the League's hands, those are theirs.

The tiles

There are three numbered suits, each running 1 through 9:

  • Bams (bamboo)
  • Cracks (characters)
  • Dots (circles)

Then the honor tiles:

  • Winds: North, East, West, South.
  • Dragons: red, green, and white. Each dragon “belongs” to a suit, which matters on the card.

And the specials:

  • Flowers: 8 tiles, all interchangeable, used in many hands.
  • Jokers: 8 wild tiles that can stand in for others in specific ways. Jokers are powerful and a little restricted; you cannot use one for a single tile in a pair, for example.

That is 152 tiles in total. Our guide to the tiles covers each group in full, including how many of each exist, which matters more than it sounds.

The goal

Every hand on the card is a specific pattern of 14 tiles. To win, your tiles must match one full line on the card, exactly, you cannot mix pieces of two different hands.

Patterns are built from a small vocabulary of groups:

Group What it is
Pair Two identical tiles
Pung Three identical tiles
Kong Four identical tiles
Run Consecutive numbers in one suit

A line on the card might call for, say, a pung of green dragons and a run of dots. The card tells you the shape. Your job is to build it.

Example only, and not from any real card: a made-up line like FF 2468 2468 would mean "two flowers, then the even numbers 2-4-6-8 in one suit, then 2-4-6-8 again in a second suit." We use fictional examples like this so we never copy the League's actual hands.

Setting up

Every tile goes face-down and gets shuffled. Each player then builds a wall in front of their rack, 19 tiles long and two tiles high, and the four walls are pushed together into a square.

East, the dealer, rolls two dice, counts the total along their own wall starting from its right end, and breaks the wall at that point. Each player takes their own tiles in turn order, starting from the left of the break, and the walls are used clockwise, the opposite direction from play. East ends up with 14 tiles; everyone else gets 13.

You will hold 13 tiles for almost the whole game. You go to 14 for the moment between drawing and discarding, and 14 is what you have when you win.

The Charleston

Before real play begins, American Mahjong has a passing ritual you will not find in other mahjong variants, the Charleston. It is your chance to trade away tiles you cannot use and fish for ones you need.

  1. Pass 3 tiles to the player on your right.
  2. Pass 3 across the table.
  3. Pass 3 to your left.

There is then a second Charleston (left, across, right) that is played only if all four agree, since any one player can decline it, plus an optional final “courtesy” pass with the player across from you.

The Charleston is where a lot of games are quietly won or lost. Passing well means having a target hand in mind before you start giving tiles away, which is exactly the kind of judgment that takes practice to build. Our step-by-step guide to the Charleston covers the full sequence, the blind pass, and how to choose what goes.

Taking a turn

Play moves counter-clockwise. On your turn you:

  1. Draw a tile from the wall. East opens by discarding without drawing first, and a call from another player replaces the draw and takes the turn.
  2. Decide whether it moves you toward your hand.
  3. Discard one tile face-up, calling it out.

Calling a discard

When someone discards a tile that completes a group for you, you can call it. You take the tile, and lay the finished group face-up on your rack for everyone to see. That is an exposure.

Four things constrain this, and they trip people up in roughly this order:

  • Only the most recent discard can be claimed. A tile you needed two turns ago is gone.
  • You have a narrow window. The call must come between the discard and the moment the next player racks the tile they drew, discards it, exchanges a joker, or declares a Mah Jongg. Say it out loud, quickly.
  • Only for three or more identical tiles: a pung, kong, quint or sextet. You cannot call a tile to complete a pair, a run, or any other group of unlike tiles, or take a single, with one exception: the tile that completes your whole hand.
  • You may not call a tile you just discarded yourself, and calling for an exposure commits you publicly to a direction.

When two players call the same tile for the same purpose, the one next in turn after the discarder gets it. Once a player has laid an exposure, a later exposure call is too late. But anyone calling Mah Jongg outranks anyone calling for an exposure, no matter where they sit.

Until you exchange a joker or discard, you can add a matching tile or joker to the group you just laid, or take one back. An exposure cannot shrink below a pung.

Reading the card (the basics)

The card looks dense, but it follows rules:

  • Hands are grouped into sections by theme.
  • Each line is one legal hand.
  • Color means suits, not tiles. Same color = same suit; different colors = different suits. The colors do not tell you which suit to use.
  • The letters at the end tell you if a hand is X (exposed, you may call tiles for it) or C (concealed, it must stay hidden until you win), and the number is its point value.

That is enough to start. Reading the card fluently, scanning it for the hands your tiles are closest to, is its own skill, and the one that most separates confident players from frustrated ones. Our guide to reading the NMJL card covers the notation in full: the groups, the letters, the sections, and where a joker is legal.

Choosing a hand to chase

The rules tell you what is legal. They do not tell you what to do, and this is the gap where new players stall.

At the start of a hand you have 13 tiles and a card offering dozens of lines. The job is to find the two or three lines you are closest to, keep your options open between them for as long as you can, and commit late.

Three habits do most of the work:

  • Count what you already have, not what you want. Four tiles toward a line beats one tile toward a better one.
  • Prefer lines that can take jokers. A hand made of pungs and kongs can absorb a bad draw. A hand of pairs and singles cannot, because a joker is never legal in a pair.
  • Stay in one neighborhood. Lines that share a section of the card often share tiles, so keeping two live at once frequently costs nothing.

The moment you expose a group, that flexibility is spent. You have told the table what you are building, and you have narrowed yourself to lines containing that group. Exposing is how you go faster; it is also how you stop being able to change your mind.

Winning and scoring

When your 14 tiles match a full line on the card, you declare Mah Jongg and reveal your hand. That ends the hand immediately.

The point value printed next to that hand on the card is the base. The player who threw the winning tile pays twice that value, and each of the other two pays it once. Two common bonuses raise it:

  • Jokerless, meaning the winning fourteen tiles hold no joker, in a hand with at least one group that could take one; the value doubles.
  • Self-picked, meaning the final tile came from the wall rather than from a discard you called.

Because values live on the card and the card is reissued each April, reading them off the card is part of playing, not something you memorize once.

When nobody wins

Not every hand ends in a Mah Jongg. When the last tile has been picked and discarded and nobody takes that discard, the next player finds the wall empty and the hand is a wall game: a draw with no winner. After any hand, the player on East’s right becomes East for the next hand.

Good players see a wall game coming. When the wall is short and no hand looks close, defense matters more than progress, because throwing the winning tile costs you double what the other two pay.

Dead hands

A hand can be declared dead, and that player stops participating for the rest of the hand. It happens when someone calls Mah Jongg and is wrong, or when they are holding the wrong number of tiles after East’s first discard. Another player still in the hand can declare a hand dead from the exposures on the table when the exposures fit no hand on the card, can belong only to a concealed hand, or show a needed single or pair that can no longer be made.

Calling Mah Jongg without being certain is therefore expensive. Check the line twice before you say the word.

Where beginners get it wrong

The teaching-first part. Almost none of these are rule errors, which is why they survive long after the rules are learned:

  • Reading tiles, not patterns. Beginners see “three sixes” instead of “a pung.” The card is written in patterns, so you have to see your tiles that way too.
  • Passing blind in the Charleston. Giving away tiles with no target hand in mind.
  • Chasing a dead hand. The tiles you need are gone, but you keep going.
  • Misusing jokers. They feel free, and the rule on where they are legal is easy to forget under pressure.
  • Forgetting defense. Late in a hand, every discard is a risk.

Each of these has a specific fix, and we go through all seven of them in where beginners go wrong. They are about judgment, which is exactly what practice, done right, builds.

Getting good at it

Reading a guide gets you to the table. Getting good is reps: seeing patterns until they are obvious, drilling the card until you can scan it, and learning why a move was right, not just that it was. That is what the Stoa Games app is built to do: structured lessons, spaced-repetition drills, and a companion that helps you work with your own current card.

Frequently asked questions

How many players do you need?

Four is standard. Three-player variations exist but the game is designed for four.

How many tiles are there?

152, including 8 jokers and 8 flowers.

Do I need the NMJL card?

Yes, American Mahjong is defined by the card’s hands, and it changes every year. You buy the current card from the League or an authorized seller.

Is American Mahjong hard to learn?

The rules are learnable in an afternoon. Reading the card fluently and playing well takes practice, which is the part most guides skip and we focus on.

How is it different from Chinese mahjong?

Same tile family, a different game entirely: American Mahjong adds jokers, the Charleston, and the yearly card of set hands. You cannot win with “any” valid pattern, only the hands on the card.

While the app is being built

Every guide here is free to read.

The Stoa Games app adds the part a guide cannot: drills that come back when you are about to forget, and a reason behind each move. It is still in development.

How to practice